On a adoré l’expo « Tisser, broder, sublimer. Les savoir-faire de la mode »

Palais Galliera - musée de la Mode de Paris

It took no less than three chapters to pay tribute to the gestures that elevate haute couture. In this first chapter, the Palais Galliera invites us to observe under a magnifying glass – literally – the diversity and richness of its collections. This first exhibition is devoted to the savoir-faire that ennobles and decorates clothing and accessories. These techniques are approached through the theme of the flower, an essential motif in textile art and fashion since the 18th century. With more than 350 works (garments, accessories, photographs, graphic arts, samples, tools…), the exhibition reveals both creations from haute couture houses and pieces by young artisans, some of which were specially made for the event. A unique opportunity to dive into the heart of fashion savoir-faire. The editorial teamFor this opening chapter, it is the savoir-faire related to ornamentation that is honored, from weaving to lace, through printing, embroidery, or dyeing. As a red thread running through the exhibition, the flower – omnipresent in fashion and decorative arts since the 18th century – blossoms before our marveling eyes into a multitude of motifs, whose inspirations come partly from here, but mostly from elsewhere. A parasol adorned with dahlias recalling the elegance of wagasa – those famous Japanese umbrellas –, a « Sac des Indes » pochette signed Van Cleef & Arpels and covered in gold and precious stones, a Christian Dior bustier dress with orientalizing arabesques: we travel through a certain aestheticism enamored with exoticism, largely nourished by the postcolonial context and maritime exchanges with the Orient and the Maghreb in the 18th and 19th centuries. While the exhibition immerses us in the complexity of the loom, the virtuosity of the art of lace, or the mysteries of lurex, it does not drown our gaze in a mass of technical information. For beyond the stages of creation, it is above all the silhouettes in their final form, impressively beautiful and elegant, that are presented to us. The hidden hands on displayHere, above all, we take the time to slow down. Gone is the race against the clock typical of Fashion Week runway shows: for once, fashion is contemplated, while making visible those who work in the shadows, whether they are embroiderers, weavers, jewelry makers, feather workers, dyers, or lace makers. At the heart of this hushed staging, talents meet, savoir-faire is told, and the backstage of artisan workshops and great fashion houses is revealed… thread by thread. Eva Y. To make sure you never miss any of our exhibition reviews, subscribe to our newsletter!

Source: Paris Open Data ↗