On a vu, on a aimé l’expo « Tisser, broder, sublimer. Les savoir-faire de la mode »

Palais Galliera - musée de la Mode de Paris

No fewer than three chapters were needed to pay tribute to the gestures that elevate haute couture. In this first chapter, the Palais Galliera invites us to examine – literally – the diversity and richness of its collections under a magnifying glass. This first exhibition is devoted to the know-how that allows garments and accessories to be embellished and decorated. These techniques are explored through the theme of the flower, an essential motif in the art of textiles and in fashion since the 18th century. Rich with more than 350 works (garments, accessories, photographs, graphic arts, samples, tools…), the exhibition reveals both creations from haute couture houses and pieces by young artisans, some of which were specially made for the event. A unique opportunity to dive into the heart of fashion's know-how. The editorial team's opinionFor this opening chapter, it is the know-how linked to ornamentation that takes centre stage, from weaving to lace, by way of printing, embroidery and dyeing. The exhibition's guiding thread, the flower – omnipresent in fashion and the decorative arts since the 18th century – blossoms before our amazed eyes into a multitude of motifs, whose inspirations come partly from here, but above all from elsewhere. A parasol adorned with dahlias recalling the elegance of wagasa – those famous Japanese umbrellas –, the "Sac des Indes" clutch signed Van Cleef & Arpels and covered in gold and precious stones, a Christian Dior bustier dress with orientalising arabesques: we travel through a certain aestheticism infatuated with exoticism, one that the postcolonial context and maritime exchanges with the Orient and the Maghreb largely nourished in the 18th and 19th centuries. While the exhibition plunges us into the complexity of the weaving loom, the virtuosity of the art of lace, or the mysteries of lurex, it does not overwhelm our gaze with a heap of technical information. For beyond the stages of production, it is above all the silhouettes in their finished form, impressively beautiful and elegant, that are offered up to us. The hidden hands are put on displayHere, above all, we take the time to slow down. Gone is the race against the clock typical of Fashion Weeks runway shows: for once, fashion is contemplated, while making visible those who work in the shadows, be they embroiderers, weavers, jewellery-makers, feather-workers, dyers or lacemakers. At the heart of this hushed scenography, talents meet, know-how is told, and the backstage of artisans' workshops and great fashion houses is revealed… stitch by stitch. Eva Y. To make sure you don't miss any of our exhibition reviews, subscribe to our newsletter!

Source: Paris Open Data ↗